It’s one of the lesser known Belgian cities but Ghent delights Sarah Hardy.
With its rich medieval history, charming waterways, cultural highlights and massive foodie scene, Ghent is a great choice for a few days away.
Add to all that the fact that you can get there very easily (and cheaply) from Norwich and what’s not to like?
We boarded EuroStar in Ebbsfleet, a couple or so hours from Norwich, were in Brussels about two hours later after a snack and a snooze, and then in Ghent within another hour. Easy peasy.
You can’t really pigeon-hole the city. It’s not got the Eurocrat feel of Brussels and isn’t as packed with tourists as Bruges – or as pricey. It is awash with students, about 80,000 of them in term time, which gives a youthful, trendy vibe; then there is all that history. The city, in Western Flanders, was filthy rich in medieval times, making cash from wool, and the ornate architecture reflects this. It’s all fairytale like, with the merchant houses beautifully set off by the River Leie and the network of canals.
It’s an easy city to get around. For a start there are super frequent trams which, to be honest, scared the living daylights out of me as they whizz past you and you don’t especially hear them so you have to keep your wits about you! But, on the flip side, cars are banned from many of the main touristy areas so you don’t have them to negotiate.
For me, it is just a city to stroll around. The distances are not huge and there are so many tempting coffee shops and bars, of course, (it is Belgium after all), that it’s just a joy. And this way, you’ll discover the alleys, hidden squares and noteworthy buildings – we found the beautiful opera house and newish funky main library just by not really concentrating on where we were walking!
It is all so ridiculously pretty which perhaps isn’t mentioned enough. After dark it is fab, too, as the local authorities have invested a huge amount of money in floodlighting many of the buildings, with their watery reflections simply captivating.
The city’s skyline is dominated by the three towers of St Nicholas Church, the Belfort and St Bavo’s Cathedral so you never lose track of where you are.
St Bavo’s was founded in the 7th century and what most of us want to see is the 1432 altarpiece, The Adoration of the Lamb, one of religious art’s greatest creations and one of the most stolen!
It is also obligatory to climb the 17th century belfort, basically a belltower, built to keep an eye on the surrounding countryside and any pesky attackers, usually, apparently, the Spanish.
Our hotel, was bang opposite another of the city’s main attractions: the Gravensteen, an 800-year-old castle. With its own moat, it was built as a show of power by the local count who seemed to love a good torture chamber, too. Believe me, it is not for the faint hearted.
Other must do trips include a river cruise, where you get to peep into some of the great waterside houses, and a visit to the Design Museum, housed behind an 18th-century façade with a modern extension, which plays host to a fascinating collection of 17th and 18th century furnishings, as well as examples of Belgian Art Nouveau and Art Deco.
Don’t miss the former central post office building which is now home to a swanky hotel, bar, cafe and trendy shop, packed with achingly cool interior goodies. And also seek out ‘graffiti street’ where the city’s artists, or rather wannabe artists, are given a free rein to express themselves.
The foodie scene reflects Ghent’s somewhat split personality. There are the traditional places, with massive ribs on offer, plus heritage dishes like stoverij, waterzooi and cheese croquettes.
In the 15th Great Butchers’ Hall, right in the heart of the city, is a restaurant serving regional specialities plus there’s a shop selling the supplies – think cheeses, meats, beers and chocolate – of course!
Yet there are some very contemporary, cutting edge places, too. Young chefs don’t seem to be too fussed about Michelin stars, rather they like relaxed dining with an emphasis on innovation and experimentation. Seek out the Patershol area, a maze of cobbled streets where countless eateries, all interesting, are based. Roots is a current hottie.
There’s also an accent on vegan and vegetarian restaurants and the city promotes meat-free Thursdays when diners are encouraged to go veggie. We tried Le Botaniste which serves organic, plant-based dishes and natural wines. It’s pretty, bowl food and my salad seemed to have a bit of everything in it, included masses of beetroot hummus.
Interestingly, there are no large supermarkets here, rather, some lovely food markets where you can drool over the breads, meats, cheeses and seasonal fruit and veg. We visited Cru and Lousbergmarkt and were impressed by the quality and choice.
We also enjoyed the Holy Food Market – a church converted into a food court but not just any old food court! There’s a trendy bar down the centre, with about 15 outlets offering everything from Portuguese tapas to fresh oysters – and all things in-between. It’s definitely a ‘destination’ and a great idea for one of our many disused churches in Norwich.
Make sure you try a few of the pubs. They all have a story, a huge selection of beers to try and many seem to do live music. De Dulle Griet serves up yards of beer and, for some reason, unclear to me, you have to surrender one of your shoes. I guess they worry about you scampering off with the quirky glasses!
That’s Ghent for you – it may look noble and proud but it has a real party side to it, which is desperate to get out and let its hair down. You’ll love it!
We travelled by EuroStar and stayed at the Hotel Gravensteen, a three star hotel in a lovely old palace.
Do make use of the city cards; they allow free tram travel and entry into all museums, galleries and the like for a fairly reasonable amount. We paid E35 for a 72 hour pass.
My favourites
HET MOMENT
For artistic breakfasts in equally stylish surroundings.
LE PAIN QUOTIDIEN
For healthy brunches and lunches – avocado rules here
OAK
A one-star Michelin restaurant, run by Marcelo Ballardin, who worked with Heston Blumenthal.
WASBAR
A launderette and coffee house. We loved their bagels.
WIN – FOR WINE
I loved their Belgian fizz
DE ALCHEMIST
Work your way through their gin list.
Read the article on the Feast Norfolk website: https://www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk/the-magazine/latest-editions/issue-37-june-2019/